Many anglers feel the plastic worm is the most versatile lure available. It can be fished from top to bottom and all depths in between. Plastic worms can be rigged weed-less, with an exposed hook and with or without any weight added. There are countless styles of plastic worms from straight bodies and tails to ribbon style tails for more action. The five major techniques of fishing plastic worms are Texas rig, Carolina rig, Split Shot rig, Shaky Head (fished with a jig head) and floating (top-water).
The Texas rig is generally the most used among anglers. It is a bottom bouncing presentation and can be worked at varying speeds. The rig consists of a hook, sinker and worm. There are special sinkers made for this technique which is bullet shaped and slide on the line above the hook and worm. The rig is fairly inexpensive for the basic components. However, there are specially made sinkers and hooks that do cost more than the basic set-up.
The Texas rig with a bullet slip sinker is great for most applications. However, if the angler wants to present the worm in heavy grass or timber a sinker that is pegged to the top of the worm head is best. This allows the sinker to stay in contact with the worm so the whole rig will fall together. If the sinker isn’t pegged many times the sinker will fall while leaving the hook and worm above the grass or over a tree limb.
There are two popular ways of keeping the sinker attached to the head of the worm. The first is to use a toothpick and insert the point into the hole of sinker “pegging” the link to the sinker. The sinker is then pushed securely against the head of the worm where it will stay. The disadvantage of this technique is it can cause line damage, thus weakening the line.
The alternative to this approach is use a screw in type sinker. This is often called the Florida Rig (Gambler Lures was the first to produce this type of sinker) where the sinker has a small spring molded into the bottom of a bullet sinker. The line slips through the sinker just as the regular slip sinker and then the sinker is screwed onto the head of the worm to secure the whole rig together. There must be about one quarter inch of the worm head above the eye of the hook for this rig to work properly. The disadvantage of the Florida Rig is it causes the head of the worm to be torn up more often due to the spring being inserted into the worm. An angler may go through a few more worms in a day but I feel the advantage is greatly worth the additional cost of a few worms. I use this rig exclusively when fishing the Texas rig worm.
The Carolina rig is a great way to present most any plastic lure and is very similar to the Texas rig at the hook. The difference is in the way the weight is attached to the line. With the Carolina rig the plastic worm (lizards are also a very popular plastic lure with this technique) is attached to the hook the same as the Texas rig. The angler then uses a leader of varying lengths (commonly from 12 inches to 48 inches) and ties it to a barrel swivel. The sinker is slid onto the main line (the line from the reel spool) and ties the other end of the swivel to the main line. The most common sinker for this application is an egg sinker of one quarter to one ounce in weight. My personal choice is generally a three quarter ounce sinker but I will change weights when conditions require. Also, I generally use a 48-inch leader when using this technique.
The Carolina rig is a great way to present soft plastic lures in deep water while allowing for a faster retrieve. The slowest presentation requires the angler to simply drag the sinker along the bottom, which allows the lure to sway behind. Many times the sinker dragging on the bottom will get the fish’s attention and the lure will cause the bites. The sinker kicks up silt from the bottom similar to the way a crawdad does while looking for food or escaping from prey.
If the fish seem to be active and willing to hit a faster moving lure I will use a retrieve where I lift the sinker off the bottom and allow it to fall on a tight line. The tight line is necessary to be able to detect strike when they occur. This retrieve allows me to cover more water and still have the advantage of the plastic worm. It can be worked much faster than a Texas rig worm.
A plastic worm can also be used with a split shot technique. This technique is a modified Carolina rig in that the swivel isn’t commonly used. Also, it is used when smaller plastic worms are called for with light line. It is a plastic worm rigged just like the Texas rig worm and the weight is added above the lure using a split shot sinker. There are now available some slip sinkers that resemble a tube shape and can be pegged at varying lengths above the lure and hook. The pegging can be done with a tooth pick or a special tool similar to a needle thread tool that allow the angler to pull some rubber skirt material through the sinker hole. The advantage to this is the angler can later adjust the length of line between the lure and the sinker.
In recent years the Shaky Head worm presentation has become popular. It is, for the most part, a new style of finesse fishing. However, this technique can be used with heavier equipment as well. Shaky worms are generally a straight worm from four to seven inches long with the most common length about five inches. This approach is a worm on a jig head made especially for the presentation. There are several styles of shaky head jig ranging from football shaped heads to round heads. There is some type of attachment point on the jig head for the head of the worm to attach while the hook point is inserted into the body of the worm to keep it from hanging up on rocks and cover. When using the shaky head presentation the Gambler Giggy Head is my choice due to the worm easily coming loose from the head during the hook set. When the worm comes loose it has less chance of covering the hook point and preventing a good hook set.
The floating worm is a great technique to fish with a top-water approach. Floating worms are nothing more than a worm and a hook usually fished on light line. Some anglers do add a swivel in front of the worm to avoid line twist as the worms does cause this during the retrieve. To avoid line twist while not using a swivel it is best to rig the worm so it lies straight with either an exposed hook or the point inserted into the worm body like a Texas rig.
There are many manufacturers of floating worms and some are made of material that is similar to closed-cell foam. Choose worms made for this technique as they will be the most buoyant and stay on the top of the water. Retrieve speed can be adjusted as needed but I always start with a slow retrieve and change it to a faster retrieve if the fish appear to be more active.
When choosing colors of plastic worms a good approach is for dirty water start with a dark color worm. In clear water an angler should use a lighter color similar to the natural forage. When fishing at night a long (ten inches or longer) worm is a great choice in dark colors. As with all fishing don’t be afraid to experiment with different colors and styles of worms. Let the fish tell you what they are most interested in with the current conditions.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers, all rights reserved
Midwest Fishing Tackle
Midwest Fishing Tackle, Exclusive retailer of Midwest Custom Tackle
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Fishing Buddies
The Making of Life-Long Fishing Buddies
At the age of ten years old a young boy didn’t realize he was developing a relationship that would last a lifetime. He visited the home of a man who would become a life-long fishing partner while on a family vacation. The visit took place in the suburbs of Atlanta, Georgia in 1974.
The boy already had shown a strong interest in the outdoors while especially enjoying fishing. He had regularly fished in a small creek near his home happy to catch anything that would bite. Panfish and catfish were the most common catch in this small body of water that most adults could have stepped across in many places.
Fishing equipment wasn’t important as a tree limb and short piece of line were many times his only option. A regular fishing hook was great to have but at times a safety pin had to do. If a bobber was needed his mother would tie a short piece of tree limb to the line several inches above the “hook” for a strike indicator. It was a simple but effective way to catch the eager fish in the small creek.
The man who later became his fishing partner also started fishing with similar equipment about 30 years earlier. He grew up near the shores of the Mississippi River in Southeast Missouri during a time of what many later called rough times. He later joined the United States Air Force and it is rumored he lied about his age as he was too young to have joined. He served his country stationed in New York where he met his wife of over forty years. They moved to Atlanta and called it home for many years where they raised a family together.
The young boy also grew up in the same area of Southeast Missouri while he developed his love of fishing much the same way. On this vacation his family was in route to Florida for a vacation and stopped in to visit the boy’s uncle in Atlanta where the two talked about fishing.
They stayed with his uncle for a couple of days and went fishing together at a local “pay-by-the-pound” trout pond. The young man had such a great time they planned another trip together that was to take place soon. It just so happened the boy’s uncle visited his home in Missouri where the subdivision had a two acre pond and they spent much of the time together on the shore of this pond.
They fished for anything that would accommodate them and enjoyed the time together. The following spring the boy once again visited Atlanta for another trip. However, this time it wasn’t a family vacation. The boy flew to Atlanta alone where his uncle picked him up at the airport gate. They spent time fishing all over the states of Georgia and Alabama together for a whole week.
These annual trips continued for the next several years until the young man was old enough to drive. From that day forward he drove to Atlanta often times taking a friend to fish with his favorite uncle. They would fish any body of water they thought fish might hide.
One memorable trip was to Warm Springs, Georgia where the boy’s uncle had a friend who loaned them a place to stay on a private lake about 60 acres in size. Every trip was an adventure and this one was no exception.
When they arrived at the lake they made a temporary home in a borrowed mobile home on the shores of the lake. The place hadn’t been used in several years and was full of many insects that had also called the place home before their death. Needless to say there were dead bugs everywhere. However, eager to catch some of the big southern large-mouth bass rumored to lurk in the waters, there was no time to do much housekeeping.
They set out in a borrowed johnboat and an electric motor attached to the back. The two could not have been happier spending time together and sharing a boat. Many fish were caught that day and the boy caught his first large-mouth over seven pounds.
When not fishing together the two of them were talking about prior trips and those to come. During the years they fished together from Mark Twain Lake in Northeast Missouri to Lake Okeechobee in Florida and many places in between.
When this friendship began the “old-man” was teaching the young boy about fishing. However, due to these early lessons the young man became much better at fishing and was able to teach his uncle a few things as well. The pair has enjoyed many days on the water together over the last 35 years. They don’t get to fish much together anymore but not a fishing trip goes by that the boy’s uncle isn’t remembered to some degree.
Many stories are told about when the two shared the water together. The boy is now a grown man with a two sons of his own. He takes them fishing every chance they get and passes along the lessons he learned from his uncle. The stories are shared of the “old times” with his uncle and all the big fish they caught together. I know for sure the “boy” has been heard to say that this uncle has had the most influence on his fishing over the years. He always refers to him as his “favorite uncle” and this was no doubt because of the time they spent together on the water.
This story has been written for two reasons. To honor the man who spent much time developing the love of the outdoors and fishing of a young man and to encourage others to take a child fishing. Doing so can form a bond that will last a lifetime.
Special note: This story was inspired by the relationship I had with my mother’s brother. I owe a special thank you to my Uncle Larry for his fishing lessons over the years. While we lived over 600 miles apart he always made time to take me fishing.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers, all rights reserved.
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Small Waters in Winter
SMALL PONDS IN LATE WINTER CAN BE VERY PRODUCTIVE
By late February most avid anglers have had a severe case of cabin fever for several months. With spring just around the corner most of us can hardly wait until the fish begin to move into the shallow water to begin the spawn.
In the Midwest’s larger reservoirs the pre-spawn can begin in early March. However, most years it begins in late March to early April and the spawn can last through the middle of May. However, there is a way to fish waters where the spring transition occurs earlier without having to travel very far from home.
Most anglers that fish the larger reservoirs began their love of fishing on small lakes and farm ponds. These same small waters are the very ones which warm the fastest in the spring and cause the fish's activity level to accelerate accordingly. While the big waters have surface temperatures in the fifty degree range it is possible to find ponds and small lakes with water temperature in the sixty degree range. That ten-degree difference can be the difference between having a very productive day and very few fish landed.
Those anglers fortunate enough to own a big bass boat and high powered outboard will have no advantage over the angler who walks the bank in search of his/her fish. This type of fishing can be the most peaceful angling outing you can have. I suggest you leave your boat at home and walk the bank because very few small lakes and ponds have boat ramps and those that do have very conservative horsepower limits.
Most anyone can afford the equipment needed to effectively fish small waters. One medium action rod and reel and a small tackle box filled with a variety of basic lures is all that is necessary. Lures called favorites on the big lakes are usually just as effective on the small ponds. However, smaller versions of these are sometimes necessary depending on the size of the fish in the pond you choose. If a list of favorite pond lures existed it would have to include the four and six inch plastic worms, one quarter ounce spinner bait and buzz bait and small top-water baits like the Pop R and Zara Pooch.
The ideal ponds for productive fishing are private farm ponds. These usually receive very little fishing pressure and have the potential of holding a few large fish. If you have permission to fish private ponds make sure to treat the land and water better than if it were your own. Leave behind no sign of your presence and release all fish unless the owner gives you explicit permission as to the kind and number of fish you are allowed to keep. Also you should never return to the pond without the owner's knowledge and never take anyone with you without first discussing it with the owner. Always remember that because a pond holds good fish doesn't justify your trespassing to fish in it. To show your appreciation you should offer to share the fish you keep with the owner.
For those anglers not fortunate enough to have access to the private ponds do not overlook the community lakes and ponds in local parks. Few seasoned anglers fish these public waters and while not as common, many large fish have come from such waters in the past. To locate these public fishing areas contact your local conservation office or parks department. These offices are always willing to help with information on the species of fish available and area regulations if they differ from statewide laws.
Late this winter when all of your tackle boxes are organized and your hooks all sharpened you too should try pond fishing. In the Midwest region late February is not too early to get started refining your angling skills for the up-coming fishing season. You just might have one of your best fishing days ever and even if it proves to be not very productive, it still beats watching someone else catch fish on television.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers
www.midwestfishingtackle.net
By late February most avid anglers have had a severe case of cabin fever for several months. With spring just around the corner most of us can hardly wait until the fish begin to move into the shallow water to begin the spawn.
In the Midwest’s larger reservoirs the pre-spawn can begin in early March. However, most years it begins in late March to early April and the spawn can last through the middle of May. However, there is a way to fish waters where the spring transition occurs earlier without having to travel very far from home.
Most anglers that fish the larger reservoirs began their love of fishing on small lakes and farm ponds. These same small waters are the very ones which warm the fastest in the spring and cause the fish's activity level to accelerate accordingly. While the big waters have surface temperatures in the fifty degree range it is possible to find ponds and small lakes with water temperature in the sixty degree range. That ten-degree difference can be the difference between having a very productive day and very few fish landed.
Those anglers fortunate enough to own a big bass boat and high powered outboard will have no advantage over the angler who walks the bank in search of his/her fish. This type of fishing can be the most peaceful angling outing you can have. I suggest you leave your boat at home and walk the bank because very few small lakes and ponds have boat ramps and those that do have very conservative horsepower limits.
Most anyone can afford the equipment needed to effectively fish small waters. One medium action rod and reel and a small tackle box filled with a variety of basic lures is all that is necessary. Lures called favorites on the big lakes are usually just as effective on the small ponds. However, smaller versions of these are sometimes necessary depending on the size of the fish in the pond you choose. If a list of favorite pond lures existed it would have to include the four and six inch plastic worms, one quarter ounce spinner bait and buzz bait and small top-water baits like the Pop R and Zara Pooch.
The ideal ponds for productive fishing are private farm ponds. These usually receive very little fishing pressure and have the potential of holding a few large fish. If you have permission to fish private ponds make sure to treat the land and water better than if it were your own. Leave behind no sign of your presence and release all fish unless the owner gives you explicit permission as to the kind and number of fish you are allowed to keep. Also you should never return to the pond without the owner's knowledge and never take anyone with you without first discussing it with the owner. Always remember that because a pond holds good fish doesn't justify your trespassing to fish in it. To show your appreciation you should offer to share the fish you keep with the owner.
For those anglers not fortunate enough to have access to the private ponds do not overlook the community lakes and ponds in local parks. Few seasoned anglers fish these public waters and while not as common, many large fish have come from such waters in the past. To locate these public fishing areas contact your local conservation office or parks department. These offices are always willing to help with information on the species of fish available and area regulations if they differ from statewide laws.
Late this winter when all of your tackle boxes are organized and your hooks all sharpened you too should try pond fishing. In the Midwest region late February is not too early to get started refining your angling skills for the up-coming fishing season. You just might have one of your best fishing days ever and even if it proves to be not very productive, it still beats watching someone else catch fish on television.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers
www.midwestfishingtackle.net
Game Plan for Fishing
DEVELOPING A GAME PLAN FOR UNFAMILIAR WATER
Your fishing trip has been planned for many weeks. You and your favorite fishing partner have gone over every detail to assure nothing has been forgotten. The night before leaving you will find it hard to sleep. The thoughts of where and how you will catch the fish have been filling your mind most of the night. The reasons for the meticulous planning are because you have limited time on the water and you have never been on the body of water you are about to visit.
When most anglers arrive at an unfamiliar body of water they have already obtained as much information about it as possible. Anglers are notorious for knowing what the fish are being caught on before they ever leave home. We will have our whole weekend planned around how others have caught fish at our destination. However, the information we receive may not be current or even correct. The information may have come from a newspaper fishing report that is only as good as its source. While I was on a guided trip in Florida’s Lake Okeechobee, the guide told me when the local newspaper and radio stations contact him he will either tell them the productive lures or the areas, but never both. The best way to avoid the problems of other angler's information is to listen but remember it is not etched in stone. Fishing is a very dynamic sport where productive methods can change in a very short time.
Many anglers feel that most productive fishing days are the result of a systematic, analytical approach. The best way to get started is to eliminate as much water as possible; break down the whole area into many small areas; eliminate water considered very deep for the particular body of water. Bass are generally more active when positioned in shallow water. The most important things to consider when developing a game plan are the type of water you are fishing, the time of the year, water condition, and weather condition.
The type of water will play a major role in the areas and lure types I begin with. When I refer to type of water these questions arise. Are you going to fish a shallow lake or river where anglers consider deep water ten feet or more; are you visiting a mid-land reservoirs where there are lots of small creek and a few large river channels present; or is your destination a high-land lake where there are sheer bluff walls and deep, clear water? The answer to this question is the first step in a series of items you must consider. The others, though they seem simple, are major pieces to the puzzle.
The time of year must be considered. Fish will behave certain ways during particular seasons. During winter months the water temperature is cold and the fish are lethargic. In the summer fish tend to be the most active but can become lethargic when the water temperatures rise to extremes and the oxygen levels fall. Water condition, particularly temperature and clarity, must be thought about carefully. Bass are a cold blooded creature and their metabolism is directly affected by the water temperature they live in while water clarity dictates how well and far fish can see in the water. All of these things play a part in the sport we call fishing. When you arrive at your destination consider all the things mentioned and use past experiences to get started. Also, look for areas like points, roadbeds, ledges and breaks, underwater humps, and ditches. These types of structures have proven to hold concentrations of fish.
Points have long been a productive place for anglers. Bass use them for migrations routes and staging areas when traveling between deep water. As air and water warm in the spring bass move up from deeper water into shallow areas to spawn. During the summer they will often travel from deep to shallow water on a daily basis. They will move to the shallow areas at night as the surface water cools and return to deep water as temperatures began to rise during the day time hours. Points have long been a favorite of both the bass and the angler.
Roadbeds are used by bass as migration routes and they are also easily found by anglers. A good topographical map is an excellent tool for finding roadbeds, but a keen eye on the bank of most reservoirs will most often do just fine. These areas will offer cover to the bass in the form of broken asphalt and concrete, gravel, ditches along the side of the old road, and an occasional bridge. The flat area of the roadbed becomes an avenue for both bait fish and the bass. Furthermore, roadbeds are prime spawning flats, especially the old gravel roadbeds.
Ledges and breaks are similar to points that extend into the water. They are a prime area for the angler interested in structure fishing. The drop offs may be in increments of only a few feet, but can also have vertical drops of twenty feet or more. When approaching these areas watch for bait fish, if present the bass will most likely be close by. Drop offs and ledges are perfect locations for vertical presentations like bouncing a jig or working a spoon.
Under water humps and ditches will quite often hold bass. Humps give a bass an area to locate in water shallower than the surrounding water and the security of being away from the shoreline where anglers often prowl. Ditches are usually found a short way from the shoreline and often create the subtle depth changes bass are looking for.
In your search for areas to fish don't overlook obvious targets like man made brush piles and fallen down trees. These targets are bombarded with lures every day but if you fish them thoroughly they can pay big dividends. Also, don't pass up a boat dock that has good cover or deep water close by. On many older lakes docks are a major source of cover for the fish.
Current and sun, or lack of, can influence the way a bass will hold on a particular piece of cover or structure. In most situations when current is flowing bass will be facing into the current for a better position to ambush bait fish. Therefore it is always a good idea to present your offering with the current. Bass have a tendency to swim around more when current is not prevalent. Sun light, in most cases, will cause bass to hold tighter to cover. For a long time it was thought this was true because bass don't have eyelids and the bright light hurt their eyes. However, now it is believed the reason is due to the fact it is much easier to ambush prey from a darker area looking into the more lighted area.
There are a lot of conditions to consider when putting together a plan of action on unfamiliar water. All the above-mentioned conditions play a major role in the way a bass will behave. The areas mentioned are by no means a complete list of areas to locate concentrations of bass. However, if you will take a close look at both water and weather conditions as well as the time of year when considering these areas, it will make you a better angler. Fishing is a thinking game and bass will generally react the same way as in the past when conditions repeat themselves. Bass are creatures of habit and anglers should count on the oldest and biggest ones to usually follow the same routines to get that way.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogerswww.midwestfishingtackle.net
Your fishing trip has been planned for many weeks. You and your favorite fishing partner have gone over every detail to assure nothing has been forgotten. The night before leaving you will find it hard to sleep. The thoughts of where and how you will catch the fish have been filling your mind most of the night. The reasons for the meticulous planning are because you have limited time on the water and you have never been on the body of water you are about to visit.
When most anglers arrive at an unfamiliar body of water they have already obtained as much information about it as possible. Anglers are notorious for knowing what the fish are being caught on before they ever leave home. We will have our whole weekend planned around how others have caught fish at our destination. However, the information we receive may not be current or even correct. The information may have come from a newspaper fishing report that is only as good as its source. While I was on a guided trip in Florida’s Lake Okeechobee, the guide told me when the local newspaper and radio stations contact him he will either tell them the productive lures or the areas, but never both. The best way to avoid the problems of other angler's information is to listen but remember it is not etched in stone. Fishing is a very dynamic sport where productive methods can change in a very short time.
Many anglers feel that most productive fishing days are the result of a systematic, analytical approach. The best way to get started is to eliminate as much water as possible; break down the whole area into many small areas; eliminate water considered very deep for the particular body of water. Bass are generally more active when positioned in shallow water. The most important things to consider when developing a game plan are the type of water you are fishing, the time of the year, water condition, and weather condition.
The type of water will play a major role in the areas and lure types I begin with. When I refer to type of water these questions arise. Are you going to fish a shallow lake or river where anglers consider deep water ten feet or more; are you visiting a mid-land reservoirs where there are lots of small creek and a few large river channels present; or is your destination a high-land lake where there are sheer bluff walls and deep, clear water? The answer to this question is the first step in a series of items you must consider. The others, though they seem simple, are major pieces to the puzzle.
The time of year must be considered. Fish will behave certain ways during particular seasons. During winter months the water temperature is cold and the fish are lethargic. In the summer fish tend to be the most active but can become lethargic when the water temperatures rise to extremes and the oxygen levels fall. Water condition, particularly temperature and clarity, must be thought about carefully. Bass are a cold blooded creature and their metabolism is directly affected by the water temperature they live in while water clarity dictates how well and far fish can see in the water. All of these things play a part in the sport we call fishing. When you arrive at your destination consider all the things mentioned and use past experiences to get started. Also, look for areas like points, roadbeds, ledges and breaks, underwater humps, and ditches. These types of structures have proven to hold concentrations of fish.
Points have long been a productive place for anglers. Bass use them for migrations routes and staging areas when traveling between deep water. As air and water warm in the spring bass move up from deeper water into shallow areas to spawn. During the summer they will often travel from deep to shallow water on a daily basis. They will move to the shallow areas at night as the surface water cools and return to deep water as temperatures began to rise during the day time hours. Points have long been a favorite of both the bass and the angler.
Roadbeds are used by bass as migration routes and they are also easily found by anglers. A good topographical map is an excellent tool for finding roadbeds, but a keen eye on the bank of most reservoirs will most often do just fine. These areas will offer cover to the bass in the form of broken asphalt and concrete, gravel, ditches along the side of the old road, and an occasional bridge. The flat area of the roadbed becomes an avenue for both bait fish and the bass. Furthermore, roadbeds are prime spawning flats, especially the old gravel roadbeds.
Ledges and breaks are similar to points that extend into the water. They are a prime area for the angler interested in structure fishing. The drop offs may be in increments of only a few feet, but can also have vertical drops of twenty feet or more. When approaching these areas watch for bait fish, if present the bass will most likely be close by. Drop offs and ledges are perfect locations for vertical presentations like bouncing a jig or working a spoon.
Under water humps and ditches will quite often hold bass. Humps give a bass an area to locate in water shallower than the surrounding water and the security of being away from the shoreline where anglers often prowl. Ditches are usually found a short way from the shoreline and often create the subtle depth changes bass are looking for.
In your search for areas to fish don't overlook obvious targets like man made brush piles and fallen down trees. These targets are bombarded with lures every day but if you fish them thoroughly they can pay big dividends. Also, don't pass up a boat dock that has good cover or deep water close by. On many older lakes docks are a major source of cover for the fish.
Current and sun, or lack of, can influence the way a bass will hold on a particular piece of cover or structure. In most situations when current is flowing bass will be facing into the current for a better position to ambush bait fish. Therefore it is always a good idea to present your offering with the current. Bass have a tendency to swim around more when current is not prevalent. Sun light, in most cases, will cause bass to hold tighter to cover. For a long time it was thought this was true because bass don't have eyelids and the bright light hurt their eyes. However, now it is believed the reason is due to the fact it is much easier to ambush prey from a darker area looking into the more lighted area.
There are a lot of conditions to consider when putting together a plan of action on unfamiliar water. All the above-mentioned conditions play a major role in the way a bass will behave. The areas mentioned are by no means a complete list of areas to locate concentrations of bass. However, if you will take a close look at both water and weather conditions as well as the time of year when considering these areas, it will make you a better angler. Fishing is a thinking game and bass will generally react the same way as in the past when conditions repeat themselves. Bass are creatures of habit and anglers should count on the oldest and biggest ones to usually follow the same routines to get that way.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogerswww.midwestfishingtackle.net
Flipping and Pitching
FLIPPING AND PITCHING ARE KEYS TO BIG BASS
There are many fishing techniques used to catch big bass. Most anglers, if asked, would have an opinion on the most effective ways of taking big bass on a consistent basis. Most professional anglers would agree the most productive means of catching big bass is to use the flipping and pitching techniques.
While both flipping and pitching are great ways to fish, pitching is the most efficient because you can cover water faster. Tournament pro Tom Biffle prefers pitching because he can not only cover more water, he can make longer casts which results in less chance of spooking the fish.
Biffle uses a Quantum seven and one half foot rod with a high speed Quantum reel for most of his pitching. At times he will use a slower reel for the added power necessary to pull big fish from heavy cover. His reel is spooled with clear line in 25-30 pound test. Biffle seldom loses fish because he uses a long rod, heavy line, and ties the Palomar knot.
The rubber-skirted jig is the most popular bait for flipping and pitching. It is usually rigged with a plastic crawfish or pork frog. Traditionally the pork frog has been used for cold water condition and the plastic crawfish for warm water. This is beginning to change among anglers. Biffle says, "I have caught a lot of bass using a plastic crawdad trailer in cold water." He prefers the crawdad because it doesn't turn on the hook and cover the point like the pork frog sometimes does. Many fish have been lost due to this problem. Also, he prefers compact baits because it penetrates the cover better than large bulky bait.
When flipping and pitching with a plastic worm, I recommend using a paddle tail worm. They will fall through heavy cover better. Ribbon tail worms are the worst choice for heavy cover because the tail will wrap around a small limb or weeds and hang up. They are easy to shake free but will not fall at the intended target when you shake them loose.
After you choose your target make your presentation to the thickest part of the cover. Do not start at the outside edges and work your way into the heavy area. Biffle says when bass are holding on buck brush and brush piles the big fish will always be in the middle of the cover. When fishing heavy cover you can use the limbs to your advantage by hanging your bait over one to get a vertical presentation. This allows you to slowly move the bait keeping it in the strike zone longer.
Finding the fish is most of the battle of fishing. Once located, you can try different presentations to confirm the most effective. When looking for fish in the heavy cover you should first consider water temperature. In the spring and summer when the water is warm I look to the back of the coves and creeks with heavy cover. According to Biffle, the buck brush holds more fish in the spring when the bass are spawning. In the summer the willow trees are more productive. During late fall through early winter concentrate on points close to deep water. When fishing points concentrate on areas of the points where submerged brush piles are present. You will find the brush piles will concentrate bass and will greatly increase your success.
While fishing heavy cover treat each piece as a miniature lake, by doing so you can create a pattern within a pattern. After finding the primary pattern, (type of cover, depth, area of lake or river, etc.) I concentrate on what I was doing when a fish was caught. This involves paying close attention to things as whether the fish was taken on the outside or middle of cover; near a small point or cut in the cover; was I using a vertical presentation with aid of a limb, etc... These little differences can make the difference between success and failure.
If you have trouble with backlashes while pitching you are probably loading (flexing the rod by pulling the line tight) when holding the bait. What you should be doing instead is holding the bait in your hand and lifting the rod while releasing the bait. This will cause a pendulum effect and allow for longer and more precise casts. The faster you raise the rod tip the longer the cast will be. At the moment the bait passes over the target you should lift the rod tip while thumbing the spool to a stop. This causes the bait to stop and fall vertically for a quiet entry.
There are a few common mistakes anglers should avoid when flipping and pitching. Flipping requires the angler to be close to the target and in clear water conditions the result is often spooked fish. Pitching allows you to make longer casts to avoid this problem. With both techniques the goal is to have the bait enter the water quietly. A low trajectory on the cast will provide a quiet entry. Also, while flipping, many anglers are still holding the line after the cast is made. Since most bites will occur on the initial fall, by holding the line they leave themselves in a position where a good hook set is impossible.
During seminars Biffle stresses the importance of learning to flip with your less dominate hand. He says since most of the strikes occur on the fall a right handed person will be changing hands to crank the reel when the fish picks up the bait. By learning to pitch and flip with the less dominate hand you will become much more successful.
Next time you are on the water try flipping and pitching for big bass. They are slower than many other techniques but day in and day out they will consistently produce big bass.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers
http://www.midwestfishingtackle.net/
There are many fishing techniques used to catch big bass. Most anglers, if asked, would have an opinion on the most effective ways of taking big bass on a consistent basis. Most professional anglers would agree the most productive means of catching big bass is to use the flipping and pitching techniques.
While both flipping and pitching are great ways to fish, pitching is the most efficient because you can cover water faster. Tournament pro Tom Biffle prefers pitching because he can not only cover more water, he can make longer casts which results in less chance of spooking the fish.
Biffle uses a Quantum seven and one half foot rod with a high speed Quantum reel for most of his pitching. At times he will use a slower reel for the added power necessary to pull big fish from heavy cover. His reel is spooled with clear line in 25-30 pound test. Biffle seldom loses fish because he uses a long rod, heavy line, and ties the Palomar knot.
The rubber-skirted jig is the most popular bait for flipping and pitching. It is usually rigged with a plastic crawfish or pork frog. Traditionally the pork frog has been used for cold water condition and the plastic crawfish for warm water. This is beginning to change among anglers. Biffle says, "I have caught a lot of bass using a plastic crawdad trailer in cold water." He prefers the crawdad because it doesn't turn on the hook and cover the point like the pork frog sometimes does. Many fish have been lost due to this problem. Also, he prefers compact baits because it penetrates the cover better than large bulky bait.
When flipping and pitching with a plastic worm, I recommend using a paddle tail worm. They will fall through heavy cover better. Ribbon tail worms are the worst choice for heavy cover because the tail will wrap around a small limb or weeds and hang up. They are easy to shake free but will not fall at the intended target when you shake them loose.
After you choose your target make your presentation to the thickest part of the cover. Do not start at the outside edges and work your way into the heavy area. Biffle says when bass are holding on buck brush and brush piles the big fish will always be in the middle of the cover. When fishing heavy cover you can use the limbs to your advantage by hanging your bait over one to get a vertical presentation. This allows you to slowly move the bait keeping it in the strike zone longer.
Finding the fish is most of the battle of fishing. Once located, you can try different presentations to confirm the most effective. When looking for fish in the heavy cover you should first consider water temperature. In the spring and summer when the water is warm I look to the back of the coves and creeks with heavy cover. According to Biffle, the buck brush holds more fish in the spring when the bass are spawning. In the summer the willow trees are more productive. During late fall through early winter concentrate on points close to deep water. When fishing points concentrate on areas of the points where submerged brush piles are present. You will find the brush piles will concentrate bass and will greatly increase your success.
While fishing heavy cover treat each piece as a miniature lake, by doing so you can create a pattern within a pattern. After finding the primary pattern, (type of cover, depth, area of lake or river, etc.) I concentrate on what I was doing when a fish was caught. This involves paying close attention to things as whether the fish was taken on the outside or middle of cover; near a small point or cut in the cover; was I using a vertical presentation with aid of a limb, etc... These little differences can make the difference between success and failure.
If you have trouble with backlashes while pitching you are probably loading (flexing the rod by pulling the line tight) when holding the bait. What you should be doing instead is holding the bait in your hand and lifting the rod while releasing the bait. This will cause a pendulum effect and allow for longer and more precise casts. The faster you raise the rod tip the longer the cast will be. At the moment the bait passes over the target you should lift the rod tip while thumbing the spool to a stop. This causes the bait to stop and fall vertically for a quiet entry.
There are a few common mistakes anglers should avoid when flipping and pitching. Flipping requires the angler to be close to the target and in clear water conditions the result is often spooked fish. Pitching allows you to make longer casts to avoid this problem. With both techniques the goal is to have the bait enter the water quietly. A low trajectory on the cast will provide a quiet entry. Also, while flipping, many anglers are still holding the line after the cast is made. Since most bites will occur on the initial fall, by holding the line they leave themselves in a position where a good hook set is impossible.
During seminars Biffle stresses the importance of learning to flip with your less dominate hand. He says since most of the strikes occur on the fall a right handed person will be changing hands to crank the reel when the fish picks up the bait. By learning to pitch and flip with the less dominate hand you will become much more successful.
Next time you are on the water try flipping and pitching for big bass. They are slower than many other techniques but day in and day out they will consistently produce big bass.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers
http://www.midwestfishingtackle.net/
Monday, July 21, 2008
Fishing Vertical Edges Can Be Very Productive
Many anglers pass by some very productive areas in lakes while traveling to their fishing destinations each and every day. Some head off to shallow flats while others prefer long extended points in deeper water. To some extent the type of water available in each lake determines the type of areas fished. In Florida most waters are shallow due to the make up of the surrounding terrain. Lake Okeechobee has common lake level at 14 feet above sea level. However, Table Rock Lake in southwest Missouri has a normal summer pool of 915 feet above sea level. Anytime bluff walls are available in a body of water anglers should give serious consideration to fishing them.
Bluff walls have most any type of situations anglers may be looking for when fishing. Bluffs can be fished shallow by targeting the areas where the surface water meets the bluff as well as fished deep by presenting a lure in a vertical presentation. Many submerged points and rock edges (shelves) are also available on bluff walls. Furthermore, they generally are located on an outside river channel swing, which is sometimes an ideal area to catch fish.
Most bluff walls don’t fall off into really deep water immediately. They have a stair step process down to the deepest water. This is where the edges are created and often time hold concentrations of fish. This allows the fish to move in the water column to their preferred depth without having to move long distances. They can move up and down while still having the luxury of maintaining a close distance to cover. Keep in mind that most bluffs also have submerged trees that once grew out of the sides of them before the lake was impounded. These trees are great cover for most any game fish.
A variety of lures can be used while fishing bluff walls. Both crank baits and spinner baits are ideal for retrieving along the face of a bluff while maintaining a preferred depth.
Allowing these lures to deflect off the submerged trees can often trigger reaction strikes from fish as well.
Jigs are also a great lure to use in these areas. Jigs can be cast perpendicular to the water’s edge and worked slowly out into deeper water while allowing the lure to rest on the submerged rock shelves. The most common mistake made when fishing bottom bouncing lures on bluff walls is an angler may take up to much line during the retrieve. With a jig resting on a rock ledge the angler will lift the rod tip and turn the reel handle while the lure is falling. This will bring the lure out into deeper water and often keep it from resting on the next ledge.
To eliminate this problem the angler should allow the lure to fall on a semi-tight line until it makes contact with the next ledge. A semi-tight line is necessary to allow the angler to feel strikes while the lure is falling. Also, it pays to be a line watcher in this situation. Many times a slight twitch in the line will indicate a fish has picked up the lure on the fall.
The draw backs of using any bottom bouncing lure on bluffs is the tendency for them to get hung up on the edges of rocks as well as lodged in the many crevices in the structure. I have found a football type jig head is the least likely to get stuck in these areas. A jig head with a 60-degree bend in the hook eye will also lessen the chance of your line and knot from getting damaged by the rough terrain. My jig of choice for this style of fishing is an All-Terrain Tackle Rock Jig. The All-Terrain Tackle jig also features a waffle type surface on the bottom of the head, which I believe creates better feel of the bottom.
A shaky head jig presentation has become very popular over the last couple of years. I have incorporated this presentation into bluff fishing as well. These types of jig head used in combination with a small worm or crawdad lure are excellent choices for bluff fishing. A spinning outfit is best used in this situation because it allows anglers to opt for lighter line and the bail of the reel can be easily opened to allow a lure to free fall along the bluff. Keep in mind that a shaky head presentation is really just a different form of fishing a more traditional jig.
My favorite shaky head is the Gambler Giggy Head with a Gambler Giggy Stick or Crawdaddy attached. The Gambler Giggy Head is designed so the head of the lure is pushed onto a barb, which is molded, into the head and then the hook is inserted into the bait. This design allows the lure to easily come free from the jig head when a fish strikes and keeps the lure from balling up on the hook point. This jig head has helped me to catch more fish where other jig heads would have had the hook point covered with the lure due to it sliding down the hook.
There are countless ways to present lures on bluff walls. Use your favorites and don’t be afraid to experiment with others. Bluffs can be fished on the water’s surface down to the dark depths. Just remember these area hold almost all of the type of cover and structure anglers like to fish but concentrate them into much smaller areas.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers
Many anglers pass by some very productive areas in lakes while traveling to their fishing destinations each and every day. Some head off to shallow flats while others prefer long extended points in deeper water. To some extent the type of water available in each lake determines the type of areas fished. In Florida most waters are shallow due to the make up of the surrounding terrain. Lake Okeechobee has common lake level at 14 feet above sea level. However, Table Rock Lake in southwest Missouri has a normal summer pool of 915 feet above sea level. Anytime bluff walls are available in a body of water anglers should give serious consideration to fishing them.
Bluff walls have most any type of situations anglers may be looking for when fishing. Bluffs can be fished shallow by targeting the areas where the surface water meets the bluff as well as fished deep by presenting a lure in a vertical presentation. Many submerged points and rock edges (shelves) are also available on bluff walls. Furthermore, they generally are located on an outside river channel swing, which is sometimes an ideal area to catch fish.
Most bluff walls don’t fall off into really deep water immediately. They have a stair step process down to the deepest water. This is where the edges are created and often time hold concentrations of fish. This allows the fish to move in the water column to their preferred depth without having to move long distances. They can move up and down while still having the luxury of maintaining a close distance to cover. Keep in mind that most bluffs also have submerged trees that once grew out of the sides of them before the lake was impounded. These trees are great cover for most any game fish.
A variety of lures can be used while fishing bluff walls. Both crank baits and spinner baits are ideal for retrieving along the face of a bluff while maintaining a preferred depth.
Allowing these lures to deflect off the submerged trees can often trigger reaction strikes from fish as well.
Jigs are also a great lure to use in these areas. Jigs can be cast perpendicular to the water’s edge and worked slowly out into deeper water while allowing the lure to rest on the submerged rock shelves. The most common mistake made when fishing bottom bouncing lures on bluff walls is an angler may take up to much line during the retrieve. With a jig resting on a rock ledge the angler will lift the rod tip and turn the reel handle while the lure is falling. This will bring the lure out into deeper water and often keep it from resting on the next ledge.
To eliminate this problem the angler should allow the lure to fall on a semi-tight line until it makes contact with the next ledge. A semi-tight line is necessary to allow the angler to feel strikes while the lure is falling. Also, it pays to be a line watcher in this situation. Many times a slight twitch in the line will indicate a fish has picked up the lure on the fall.
The draw backs of using any bottom bouncing lure on bluffs is the tendency for them to get hung up on the edges of rocks as well as lodged in the many crevices in the structure. I have found a football type jig head is the least likely to get stuck in these areas. A jig head with a 60-degree bend in the hook eye will also lessen the chance of your line and knot from getting damaged by the rough terrain. My jig of choice for this style of fishing is an All-Terrain Tackle Rock Jig. The All-Terrain Tackle jig also features a waffle type surface on the bottom of the head, which I believe creates better feel of the bottom.
A shaky head jig presentation has become very popular over the last couple of years. I have incorporated this presentation into bluff fishing as well. These types of jig head used in combination with a small worm or crawdad lure are excellent choices for bluff fishing. A spinning outfit is best used in this situation because it allows anglers to opt for lighter line and the bail of the reel can be easily opened to allow a lure to free fall along the bluff. Keep in mind that a shaky head presentation is really just a different form of fishing a more traditional jig.
My favorite shaky head is the Gambler Giggy Head with a Gambler Giggy Stick or Crawdaddy attached. The Gambler Giggy Head is designed so the head of the lure is pushed onto a barb, which is molded, into the head and then the hook is inserted into the bait. This design allows the lure to easily come free from the jig head when a fish strikes and keeps the lure from balling up on the hook point. This jig head has helped me to catch more fish where other jig heads would have had the hook point covered with the lure due to it sliding down the hook.
There are countless ways to present lures on bluff walls. Use your favorites and don’t be afraid to experiment with others. Bluffs can be fished on the water’s surface down to the dark depths. Just remember these area hold almost all of the type of cover and structure anglers like to fish but concentrate them into much smaller areas.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Fishing to Win
Fishing to Win
There are countless fishing tournament circuits from the ones that attract the touring professionals to the small regional circuits that generally consist of avid week - end anglers competing for bragging rights and enough winnings to cover their costs. Many of the smaller circuits have “buddy” events where anglers compete for total boat weight. Almost all of these circuits conduct some kind of year-end event where qualifiers compete for money and prizes. To qualify the anglers accumulate points based on their finishing position in each qualifying event.
Points are generally awarded for participation in each event (10 points is common among most) and additional points for where the angler(s) finish. An example would be 100 points for a first place finish plus the 10 participation points for a total of 110 points for a win. Second place would be 109 points and so on down the list of anglers who were able to weigh in fish at the event. This is where many amateur anglers get caught up in catching a “points” fish instead of setting out to win each event. I am not suggesting that winning is easy but if the angler(s) don’t set out to do so they generally don’t bring a limit of fish to the scales at the end of the event.
Many anglers are happy with their first legal fish caught because it secures them a chance to accumulate points for the event. These points will certainly help them qualify for the year-end event and keep them in contention to win the points championship. After the first legal fish in boated it tends to take some of the pressure off the anglers(s). They will be more relaxed and then sometimes tend not to fish as competitive as they may have the ability to do.
Fishing for points generally leaves the angler(s) finishing in the middle of the pack at each event. They probably will not win the points championship and they will seldom cash a check at any event. I have watched fellow anglers allow themselves fall into this situation several times while fishing regional tournament circuits and had it personally happen to me as well. My partner and I led a circuit in points all the way until the last event only to end up in third place in the point championship race.
I must admit he and I spent a lot of time watching the point standings and relaxed after catching our first “points” fish. We only cashed a check in one event with a second place finish and big bass honors. However, the big bass was the only fish we caught during that tournament and just happened to be enough weight to also take second place.
This situation now makes me look at each tournament in a different way. My thoughts have changed and I now fish to win instead of worry about the points. When trying to win an event I know I will fish harder and be much more intense throughout the day. If winning is the goal I believe most anglers will finish higher in the standings at each event and the points will come as well. When the event starts anglers should count on catching a limit of legal fish and then start culling them with bigger fish. Make a limit your minimum standard and don’t relax until each one has been replaced with a larger one.
As it turned out the team who won the points championship and beat my partner and myself truly deserved to win it. They also had brought the most weight to the scales during the qualifying events. They even won the last event securing a one point lead over second place and three point lead over third place.
Learn from others mistakes and don’t get caught up in the “points” race in any tournament circuit. It will cost you at the end of the year in both the point standings and winnings.
Copyright Marc Rogers 2008, all rights reserved
www.midwestfishingtackle.net
There are countless fishing tournament circuits from the ones that attract the touring professionals to the small regional circuits that generally consist of avid week - end anglers competing for bragging rights and enough winnings to cover their costs. Many of the smaller circuits have “buddy” events where anglers compete for total boat weight. Almost all of these circuits conduct some kind of year-end event where qualifiers compete for money and prizes. To qualify the anglers accumulate points based on their finishing position in each qualifying event.
Points are generally awarded for participation in each event (10 points is common among most) and additional points for where the angler(s) finish. An example would be 100 points for a first place finish plus the 10 participation points for a total of 110 points for a win. Second place would be 109 points and so on down the list of anglers who were able to weigh in fish at the event. This is where many amateur anglers get caught up in catching a “points” fish instead of setting out to win each event. I am not suggesting that winning is easy but if the angler(s) don’t set out to do so they generally don’t bring a limit of fish to the scales at the end of the event.
Many anglers are happy with their first legal fish caught because it secures them a chance to accumulate points for the event. These points will certainly help them qualify for the year-end event and keep them in contention to win the points championship. After the first legal fish in boated it tends to take some of the pressure off the anglers(s). They will be more relaxed and then sometimes tend not to fish as competitive as they may have the ability to do.
Fishing for points generally leaves the angler(s) finishing in the middle of the pack at each event. They probably will not win the points championship and they will seldom cash a check at any event. I have watched fellow anglers allow themselves fall into this situation several times while fishing regional tournament circuits and had it personally happen to me as well. My partner and I led a circuit in points all the way until the last event only to end up in third place in the point championship race.
I must admit he and I spent a lot of time watching the point standings and relaxed after catching our first “points” fish. We only cashed a check in one event with a second place finish and big bass honors. However, the big bass was the only fish we caught during that tournament and just happened to be enough weight to also take second place.
This situation now makes me look at each tournament in a different way. My thoughts have changed and I now fish to win instead of worry about the points. When trying to win an event I know I will fish harder and be much more intense throughout the day. If winning is the goal I believe most anglers will finish higher in the standings at each event and the points will come as well. When the event starts anglers should count on catching a limit of legal fish and then start culling them with bigger fish. Make a limit your minimum standard and don’t relax until each one has been replaced with a larger one.
As it turned out the team who won the points championship and beat my partner and myself truly deserved to win it. They also had brought the most weight to the scales during the qualifying events. They even won the last event securing a one point lead over second place and three point lead over third place.
Learn from others mistakes and don’t get caught up in the “points” race in any tournament circuit. It will cost you at the end of the year in both the point standings and winnings.
Copyright Marc Rogers 2008, all rights reserved
www.midwestfishingtackle.net
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Carolina Rig
Carolina Rigs Are Not Just For Lizards
When the term “Carolina Rig” is said most anglers think of a soft plastic lizard on 3 – 4 foot leader behind a ½ to ¾ ounce sinker. The leader is usually 8 – 12 pound test line while the main line is 14 – 20 pound test. This presentation has been very effective for catching bass for many years but the Carolina rig doesn’t have to be limited to lizards.
The popular Senko style baits as well as tubes, worms, grubs, crawdads and flukes are very effective when used with the Carolina rig. Generally the presentation is the same with these lures as it is with the lizard. However, the Carolina rig gives these baits a different look than their regular presentations.
The Senko style baits on a Carolina rig allows the angler the dead-stick presentation in the deep water of extended points and submerged humps. A lift and drop presentation with the heavy sinker causes the bait to rise from the bottom quickly and slowly fall similar to a dead shad. Rig it on a light wire hook wacky style for a dead-shad look.
Tube baits are generally fished on a jig head for open water or Texas rig for flipping to heavy cover. Anglers should not pass on tube baits for the Carolina rig. I have had great results fishing 3 – 4 inch tubes on a Carolina rig on long points and flats. A light wire hook inserted in the head of the tube and brought back outside like a Texas rig has proven the most effective for this presentation. When fishing clear bottoms with mostly rocks I leave the hook point against the side of the tube but do not insert it back into the bait. If cover requires, I rig it weedless by skin hooking the bait just under the outside of the tube. For added action from a tube place a foam ear-plug (or small piece) inside the tube to add flotation to the bait. A tube rigged this way will move erratically when retrieved with a lift and drop motion. However, make sure the foam material doesn’t interfere with the hook finding its mark when a fish bites.
Many anglers think plastic worms are for Texas rig presentations. However, a small shaky style worm (the ones with a flat side create more darting action) on a Carolina rig is ideal for sluggish bass. This worm can be used with the lift and drop presentation as well as a slow-dragging motion for quick side-to-side action with this worm.
Grubs are also a great choice for using with the Carolina rig. A 3 – 5 inch grub is a great way to imitate a swimming shad. Again, a light hook and light leader will allow the bait to look more realistic to the bass. When using a grub I have found a lift and drop presentation has proven the most effective.
The fluke (soft plastic jerk bait) is very effective for imitating shad just below the surface. This same lure can be used on a Carolina rig and create the same action well below the surface. It should be rigged the same as traditional methods for sub-surface use but on a 3 – 4 foot leader for increased action in deep water.
The soft plastic crawdad is traditionally used as a flipping lure on a Texas rig. When swimming to escape from a predator the crawdad with jump off the bottom and swim a short distance with the claws up in the defensive position. The Carolina rig creates this exact action with the crawdad when used with the lift and drop presentation. Most strikes occur on the fall as soon as the sinker makes contact with the bottom.
If your choice is generally a lizard you should not forget about the floating lizard made by Gene Larew Lures. This special formula of soft plastic will float a light wire hook on an 8 - pound test leader well off the bottom. This particular lure is great where submerged weeds are present. You can adjust your leader length to keep the bait just above the top of the weeds.
I have even experimented with using floating jerk baits like the original floating Rapala minnows on a Carolina rig with some success. Once, I located spotted bass holding just above the bottom on an extended main lake point holding close to large boulders. The fish were too deep for a crank-bait to reach and I was having no luck on any lures that would reach the depth. This method is difficult to cast and can be dangerous if care isn’t used. This particular situation called for a quick dragging presentation but was effective in catching fish from the school in about 45 feet of water.
There are many advantages to using the Carolina rig but the best one is that an angler can cover a lot of water more quickly with soft plastic baits and greater depths than other methods. This isn’t to say the Carolina rig is the best soft plastic presentation, but when fish are scattered on long points and flats and are biting on soft plastics there isn’t a better way to cover the large areas quickly and thoroughly. However, don’t be afraid to experiment with the Carolina rig.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers; Midwest Fishing Tackle
www.midwestfishingtackle.net
When the term “Carolina Rig” is said most anglers think of a soft plastic lizard on 3 – 4 foot leader behind a ½ to ¾ ounce sinker. The leader is usually 8 – 12 pound test line while the main line is 14 – 20 pound test. This presentation has been very effective for catching bass for many years but the Carolina rig doesn’t have to be limited to lizards.
The popular Senko style baits as well as tubes, worms, grubs, crawdads and flukes are very effective when used with the Carolina rig. Generally the presentation is the same with these lures as it is with the lizard. However, the Carolina rig gives these baits a different look than their regular presentations.
The Senko style baits on a Carolina rig allows the angler the dead-stick presentation in the deep water of extended points and submerged humps. A lift and drop presentation with the heavy sinker causes the bait to rise from the bottom quickly and slowly fall similar to a dead shad. Rig it on a light wire hook wacky style for a dead-shad look.
Tube baits are generally fished on a jig head for open water or Texas rig for flipping to heavy cover. Anglers should not pass on tube baits for the Carolina rig. I have had great results fishing 3 – 4 inch tubes on a Carolina rig on long points and flats. A light wire hook inserted in the head of the tube and brought back outside like a Texas rig has proven the most effective for this presentation. When fishing clear bottoms with mostly rocks I leave the hook point against the side of the tube but do not insert it back into the bait. If cover requires, I rig it weedless by skin hooking the bait just under the outside of the tube. For added action from a tube place a foam ear-plug (or small piece) inside the tube to add flotation to the bait. A tube rigged this way will move erratically when retrieved with a lift and drop motion. However, make sure the foam material doesn’t interfere with the hook finding its mark when a fish bites.
Many anglers think plastic worms are for Texas rig presentations. However, a small shaky style worm (the ones with a flat side create more darting action) on a Carolina rig is ideal for sluggish bass. This worm can be used with the lift and drop presentation as well as a slow-dragging motion for quick side-to-side action with this worm.
Grubs are also a great choice for using with the Carolina rig. A 3 – 5 inch grub is a great way to imitate a swimming shad. Again, a light hook and light leader will allow the bait to look more realistic to the bass. When using a grub I have found a lift and drop presentation has proven the most effective.
The fluke (soft plastic jerk bait) is very effective for imitating shad just below the surface. This same lure can be used on a Carolina rig and create the same action well below the surface. It should be rigged the same as traditional methods for sub-surface use but on a 3 – 4 foot leader for increased action in deep water.
The soft plastic crawdad is traditionally used as a flipping lure on a Texas rig. When swimming to escape from a predator the crawdad with jump off the bottom and swim a short distance with the claws up in the defensive position. The Carolina rig creates this exact action with the crawdad when used with the lift and drop presentation. Most strikes occur on the fall as soon as the sinker makes contact with the bottom.
If your choice is generally a lizard you should not forget about the floating lizard made by Gene Larew Lures. This special formula of soft plastic will float a light wire hook on an 8 - pound test leader well off the bottom. This particular lure is great where submerged weeds are present. You can adjust your leader length to keep the bait just above the top of the weeds.
I have even experimented with using floating jerk baits like the original floating Rapala minnows on a Carolina rig with some success. Once, I located spotted bass holding just above the bottom on an extended main lake point holding close to large boulders. The fish were too deep for a crank-bait to reach and I was having no luck on any lures that would reach the depth. This method is difficult to cast and can be dangerous if care isn’t used. This particular situation called for a quick dragging presentation but was effective in catching fish from the school in about 45 feet of water.
There are many advantages to using the Carolina rig but the best one is that an angler can cover a lot of water more quickly with soft plastic baits and greater depths than other methods. This isn’t to say the Carolina rig is the best soft plastic presentation, but when fish are scattered on long points and flats and are biting on soft plastics there isn’t a better way to cover the large areas quickly and thoroughly. However, don’t be afraid to experiment with the Carolina rig.
Copyright 2008, Marc Rogers; Midwest Fishing Tackle
www.midwestfishingtackle.net
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Fishing The Busy Summer Time
Avoid the Crowds of Summer by Fishing at Night
As summer gets into full swing the lakes and waterway become full of everything from large boats to personal watercraft. The waters get churned up and running a fishing boat becomes more trouble than it seems worth at times. When this change begins to take place it is time for the avid angler to resort to fishing at night.
Many bass tournaments are held at night during this part of the year due to the increased watercraft traffic during the day. When an angler uses good judgment operating their boat at night it is sometimes safer for them than operating a fishing (bass) boat during the day. Also, the catch rate can be better as well.
I personally take the time to plan my fishing trips during the nighttime hours in the early to late summer. I find this time to be more relaxing than trying to contend with the other recreational boaters that use the daytime hours for their enjoyment.
While bass fishing during the night I tend to rely on a large plastic worm of 10 – 12 inches in length as well as a jig. Most often the angler is more productive to fish baits that allow for a slow moving presentation. There have been times when a crank bait or spinner bait will be more productive but generally this isn’t the case. Spinner baits can be used in the ¾ ounce size with a large single Colorado blade to get great vibration and still work them slowly.
If I had to settle on one lure for all of my night time fishing it would be a 10 inch plastic worm rigged Texas style with a 5/0 offset hook and a 5/16 ounce bullet sinker. I always use dark green colored line but many anglers prefer the florescent blue line and add a black light on the side of their boat for better line visibility. If you were a line watcher during your daylight fishing it would be a good idea to try the black light and florescent blue line.
My second choice for a nighttime lure is the ¾ ounce spinner bait in dark colored skirts with a large single Colorado blade. This lure is best worked very similar to a jig with a more pronounced lifting action. I lift the bait until the blades can be felt turning and then allow it to fall on a tight line. Many times a bass will pick up the bait on the fall and the tight line is needed to detect the strike. This presentation allows the angler to gain the advantage of both the jig and spinner bait using just one lure.
The third choice would be a football head jig for nighttime bass fishing. I choose the football head jig design due to its ability to avoid getting hung up in the many rocks that make up the bottom composition of the Ozark lakes that I regularly fish. With the jig I will vary my presentation between a bouncing off the bottom to a slow drag along the bottom until the fish show which presentation they prefer.
Anglers prefer a wide variety of lures when fishing during these hours, but despite the lure, the best presentation is usually slow. While the bass can easily detect the presence of a lure at night the sense of sight is still less useful than that of the bass feeding during the day.
As long as good sound judgment for safety is practiced by the angler nighttime fishing in the mid-summer season is the best way for anglers to avoid them many crowded lakes in the busy recreational season. Furthermore, the fishing can be excellent as with many night tournaments the winning weight of a five bass stringer can exceed 20 pounds.
www.midwestfishingtackle.net
Copyright 2008 Marc Rogers
As summer gets into full swing the lakes and waterway become full of everything from large boats to personal watercraft. The waters get churned up and running a fishing boat becomes more trouble than it seems worth at times. When this change begins to take place it is time for the avid angler to resort to fishing at night.
Many bass tournaments are held at night during this part of the year due to the increased watercraft traffic during the day. When an angler uses good judgment operating their boat at night it is sometimes safer for them than operating a fishing (bass) boat during the day. Also, the catch rate can be better as well.
I personally take the time to plan my fishing trips during the nighttime hours in the early to late summer. I find this time to be more relaxing than trying to contend with the other recreational boaters that use the daytime hours for their enjoyment.
While bass fishing during the night I tend to rely on a large plastic worm of 10 – 12 inches in length as well as a jig. Most often the angler is more productive to fish baits that allow for a slow moving presentation. There have been times when a crank bait or spinner bait will be more productive but generally this isn’t the case. Spinner baits can be used in the ¾ ounce size with a large single Colorado blade to get great vibration and still work them slowly.
If I had to settle on one lure for all of my night time fishing it would be a 10 inch plastic worm rigged Texas style with a 5/0 offset hook and a 5/16 ounce bullet sinker. I always use dark green colored line but many anglers prefer the florescent blue line and add a black light on the side of their boat for better line visibility. If you were a line watcher during your daylight fishing it would be a good idea to try the black light and florescent blue line.
My second choice for a nighttime lure is the ¾ ounce spinner bait in dark colored skirts with a large single Colorado blade. This lure is best worked very similar to a jig with a more pronounced lifting action. I lift the bait until the blades can be felt turning and then allow it to fall on a tight line. Many times a bass will pick up the bait on the fall and the tight line is needed to detect the strike. This presentation allows the angler to gain the advantage of both the jig and spinner bait using just one lure.
The third choice would be a football head jig for nighttime bass fishing. I choose the football head jig design due to its ability to avoid getting hung up in the many rocks that make up the bottom composition of the Ozark lakes that I regularly fish. With the jig I will vary my presentation between a bouncing off the bottom to a slow drag along the bottom until the fish show which presentation they prefer.
Anglers prefer a wide variety of lures when fishing during these hours, but despite the lure, the best presentation is usually slow. While the bass can easily detect the presence of a lure at night the sense of sight is still less useful than that of the bass feeding during the day.
As long as good sound judgment for safety is practiced by the angler nighttime fishing in the mid-summer season is the best way for anglers to avoid them many crowded lakes in the busy recreational season. Furthermore, the fishing can be excellent as with many night tournaments the winning weight of a five bass stringer can exceed 20 pounds.
www.midwestfishingtackle.net
Copyright 2008 Marc Rogers
Post Spawn Bass Fishing
FISHING THE POST SPAWN FOR BASS
The cold months of winter are only a memory while the spawn is just ending. Catching bass during this transition from spawn to post-spawn is one of the most difficult times for many anglers to catch fish. The female bass have moved off to deeper water while the males are just finishing up guarding the nests.
While the males were aggressive guarding the nests and some were caught on lizards and crawfish lures the females were somewhat less aggressive in the deeper water between spawn and summer patterns.
A very good starting point for catching post-spawn bass is to find areas where the fish will travel from spawning areas to the post-spawn areas. Submerged timberlines are great areas where fish travel from spawn to post-spawn areas. Midwest Fishing Tackle Pro Staff Member Aaron Hunter says “I watch for timber lines, ditches and roadbeds that will provide cover for the larger females while making their move from spawning areas to the post-spawning areas.” Aaron says he learned this technique from a guide while fishing the first time on Lake Fork in Texas.
In lakes void of timber the angler should concentrate on submerged ditches that offer a couple of feet depth change from the surrounding areas. I agree with Aaron because just this last year while fishing Lake Patoka in Southern Indiana I found the bass to be almost non-existent for the first day of fishing. However, on the second day I located an old creek channel that was about 8 feet deeper than the flat it ran through and was able to catch bass consistently.
The creek channel in Lake Patoka was about 1 mile long and meandered through a flat so I used marker buoys to mark the channel about every 50 yards and fished the drop of the old channel. A ¾ ounce jigs was the lure to produce the most fish this day in late May. This lure was heavy enough to allow me to stay in contact with the bottom of the lake and feel the drop in the creek channel.
Aaron says he prefers to use spinner baits in these areas so “I can slow roll it through the timber and hop it along the ditch line.” He reports he allows the spinner bait to free fall from the top of the drops into the deeper water while still maintaining feel of the lure. “You must be able to feel the blades spinning or you are not keeping the line tight enough.” Locating a good shad population in there areas is the key to success. While the females will use these areas to travel most will not stay there long if an abundance of food is not present. They are in need of food after the spawning process.
With shad present in the areas a white or chartreuse spinner bait is ideal. The white lure will be similar to the shad while the chartreuse will be a closer match of bluegill. The angler should let the blade color be decided by the water color and light conditions.
Aaron is a regular on a few tournament circuits including the Joe Bass Team Trail where his father Alton is his partner. The two of them will target the more aggressive males while first trying to fill a limit during a tournament. After they have caught their limit they will move out to the areas Aaron calls “highways” where the females travel to deeper water after laying their eggs in the nest.
The father/son team has found a tournament can’t be won on a limit of legal male bass. The winners must have at least one good kicker fish that is usually a large female. Aaron says “I don’t feel comfortable going to the scales without at least two good females in my live well at the end of the day.”
Copyright 2008 Marc Rogers,
The cold months of winter are only a memory while the spawn is just ending. Catching bass during this transition from spawn to post-spawn is one of the most difficult times for many anglers to catch fish. The female bass have moved off to deeper water while the males are just finishing up guarding the nests.
While the males were aggressive guarding the nests and some were caught on lizards and crawfish lures the females were somewhat less aggressive in the deeper water between spawn and summer patterns.
A very good starting point for catching post-spawn bass is to find areas where the fish will travel from spawning areas to the post-spawn areas. Submerged timberlines are great areas where fish travel from spawn to post-spawn areas. Midwest Fishing Tackle Pro Staff Member Aaron Hunter says “I watch for timber lines, ditches and roadbeds that will provide cover for the larger females while making their move from spawning areas to the post-spawning areas.” Aaron says he learned this technique from a guide while fishing the first time on Lake Fork in Texas.
In lakes void of timber the angler should concentrate on submerged ditches that offer a couple of feet depth change from the surrounding areas. I agree with Aaron because just this last year while fishing Lake Patoka in Southern Indiana I found the bass to be almost non-existent for the first day of fishing. However, on the second day I located an old creek channel that was about 8 feet deeper than the flat it ran through and was able to catch bass consistently.
The creek channel in Lake Patoka was about 1 mile long and meandered through a flat so I used marker buoys to mark the channel about every 50 yards and fished the drop of the old channel. A ¾ ounce jigs was the lure to produce the most fish this day in late May. This lure was heavy enough to allow me to stay in contact with the bottom of the lake and feel the drop in the creek channel.
Aaron says he prefers to use spinner baits in these areas so “I can slow roll it through the timber and hop it along the ditch line.” He reports he allows the spinner bait to free fall from the top of the drops into the deeper water while still maintaining feel of the lure. “You must be able to feel the blades spinning or you are not keeping the line tight enough.” Locating a good shad population in there areas is the key to success. While the females will use these areas to travel most will not stay there long if an abundance of food is not present. They are in need of food after the spawning process.
With shad present in the areas a white or chartreuse spinner bait is ideal. The white lure will be similar to the shad while the chartreuse will be a closer match of bluegill. The angler should let the blade color be decided by the water color and light conditions.
Aaron is a regular on a few tournament circuits including the Joe Bass Team Trail where his father Alton is his partner. The two of them will target the more aggressive males while first trying to fill a limit during a tournament. After they have caught their limit they will move out to the areas Aaron calls “highways” where the females travel to deeper water after laying their eggs in the nest.
The father/son team has found a tournament can’t be won on a limit of legal male bass. The winners must have at least one good kicker fish that is usually a large female. Aaron says “I don’t feel comfortable going to the scales without at least two good females in my live well at the end of the day.”
Copyright 2008 Marc Rogers,
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Drop Shot Fishing Ozark Lakes
Drop Shot Basics for Ozark Lakes
The drop shot presentation for bass fishing has really become popular during the last couple years. When drop shot fishing for bass began to gain popularity there was a lot of fishing articles being written on the subject. Now that this technique has been used for a couple of seasons there are even more variations of it being discussed.
Table Rock Lake fishing guide Don House has agreed to share his thoughts on the subject. Don uses the drop shot presentation while guiding clients on Table Rock Lake. He reports it can be a productive technique for catching summer time bass on the deep-clear waters of Ozark lakes.
Tackle used for drop shot fishing is generally a medium to medium-light spinning rod matched with an appropriate size reel. Don recommends a high quality graphite rod in a 6 ½ foot medium-light action. He says, “You need a light, fast-action tip along with a strong lower section just above the handle.” The light action tip will help to feel those light bites that are common with this style of fishing. Don also prefers a high-speed spinning reel to match with the rod. A gear ratio of 6:1 or higher is ideal to pick up line quickly when presenting a lure deep in the water. Don likes fluorocarbon line in six and eight-pound test paired with the spinning reel due to the increased sensitivity on this line.
The three most important parts of the drop shot rig are a barrel swivel, a #2 premium drop shot hook and a four-foot length leader of fluorocarbon line. The barrel swivel is attached between the main line and the leader. In the middle of the leader Don attaches a #2 drop shot hook. The polymer knot is the best knot to use for this application because it leaves a tag end to attach a sinker (1/4 – 3/8 ounce is ideal). Don tells me after tying the hook he runs the tag end back through the eye to make it stand out away from the leader and helps to keep the point in the up position.
High quality electronics are a must for this type of fishing. Electronics with a high-resolution screen with at least a 480 x 480 pixel count will allow the angler to watch their bait drop down the water column from five to 100 feet deep. The new color units allow anglers to tell where the fish are located by the color bars but color units are not necessary to be effective.
On Table Rock Lake and similar deep-clear impoundments the fish tend to suspend over deep water. They will suspend over many types of structure and cover including long gravel points, brush piles and deeply submerged standing timber. When schools of shad are present in these areas conditions are even better for holding fish near this cover and structure. The bass will stay just under the school or right in the middle of the shad while feeding.
The bass will suspend from 25 – 60 feet deep. The best way to find a starting point is locate the depth of the thermo cline using electronics. The thermo cline will show on the graph display and take up the whole screen but be just about 5 – 10 feet thick (depth). The thermo cline is where the warmer water with higher oxygen content meets the cooler water that is lower in oxygen.
Once the thermo cline is located the angler should search for cover and/or structure near the depth the thermo cline is located. Don says “I have found the bigger fish to be located just under the thermo cline and the smaller fish will be right above it”.
Once the fish are located Don says anglers will experience three types of bites. The slow pull down type occurs when the fish grab the bait and pull the bait straight down. An angler may also experience a “tap-tap” bite. This bite is from fish that take the bait very slowly to eat it. This type of bite makes catching the fish the hardest because they have to be given time to eat the bait. The last common type of bite it the collapsing line bite. This occurs when the fish move up to take the bait and continue to swim up after hitting the lure. If ever the weight of the lure can’t be felt it is a good indication that a fish has the lure and anglers should immediately pick up the slack line and set the hook.
Don recommends the following types of lures. Don says the small plastic drop shot worms in 2 – 4 inches are best. The best colors to use in the clear water are watermelon green, green pumpkin, brown/purple (commonly called Peanut Butter and Jelly).
Don adds a little personal touch to his presentation by tying his own drop shot flies. He takes drop shot hooks and ties on some feathers and flash ribbons to mimic shad in the water column.
When conditions really get tough Don suggests live night crawlers. He hooks them on drop shot hooks just through the head. This allows the worm to free float in the water to add to the appeal of the live bait look.
As with any type of fishing, this article gives the angler a good starting point. However, he/she should continue to experiment while drop shot fishing to find the most effective ways to catch fish in any particular impoundment.
Don House can be reached at http://www.bransonfishingguideservice.com/
Copyright Marc Rogers, 2008
The drop shot presentation for bass fishing has really become popular during the last couple years. When drop shot fishing for bass began to gain popularity there was a lot of fishing articles being written on the subject. Now that this technique has been used for a couple of seasons there are even more variations of it being discussed.
Table Rock Lake fishing guide Don House has agreed to share his thoughts on the subject. Don uses the drop shot presentation while guiding clients on Table Rock Lake. He reports it can be a productive technique for catching summer time bass on the deep-clear waters of Ozark lakes.
Tackle used for drop shot fishing is generally a medium to medium-light spinning rod matched with an appropriate size reel. Don recommends a high quality graphite rod in a 6 ½ foot medium-light action. He says, “You need a light, fast-action tip along with a strong lower section just above the handle.” The light action tip will help to feel those light bites that are common with this style of fishing. Don also prefers a high-speed spinning reel to match with the rod. A gear ratio of 6:1 or higher is ideal to pick up line quickly when presenting a lure deep in the water. Don likes fluorocarbon line in six and eight-pound test paired with the spinning reel due to the increased sensitivity on this line.
The three most important parts of the drop shot rig are a barrel swivel, a #2 premium drop shot hook and a four-foot length leader of fluorocarbon line. The barrel swivel is attached between the main line and the leader. In the middle of the leader Don attaches a #2 drop shot hook. The polymer knot is the best knot to use for this application because it leaves a tag end to attach a sinker (1/4 – 3/8 ounce is ideal). Don tells me after tying the hook he runs the tag end back through the eye to make it stand out away from the leader and helps to keep the point in the up position.
High quality electronics are a must for this type of fishing. Electronics with a high-resolution screen with at least a 480 x 480 pixel count will allow the angler to watch their bait drop down the water column from five to 100 feet deep. The new color units allow anglers to tell where the fish are located by the color bars but color units are not necessary to be effective.
On Table Rock Lake and similar deep-clear impoundments the fish tend to suspend over deep water. They will suspend over many types of structure and cover including long gravel points, brush piles and deeply submerged standing timber. When schools of shad are present in these areas conditions are even better for holding fish near this cover and structure. The bass will stay just under the school or right in the middle of the shad while feeding.
The bass will suspend from 25 – 60 feet deep. The best way to find a starting point is locate the depth of the thermo cline using electronics. The thermo cline will show on the graph display and take up the whole screen but be just about 5 – 10 feet thick (depth). The thermo cline is where the warmer water with higher oxygen content meets the cooler water that is lower in oxygen.
Once the thermo cline is located the angler should search for cover and/or structure near the depth the thermo cline is located. Don says “I have found the bigger fish to be located just under the thermo cline and the smaller fish will be right above it”.
Once the fish are located Don says anglers will experience three types of bites. The slow pull down type occurs when the fish grab the bait and pull the bait straight down. An angler may also experience a “tap-tap” bite. This bite is from fish that take the bait very slowly to eat it. This type of bite makes catching the fish the hardest because they have to be given time to eat the bait. The last common type of bite it the collapsing line bite. This occurs when the fish move up to take the bait and continue to swim up after hitting the lure. If ever the weight of the lure can’t be felt it is a good indication that a fish has the lure and anglers should immediately pick up the slack line and set the hook.
Don recommends the following types of lures. Don says the small plastic drop shot worms in 2 – 4 inches are best. The best colors to use in the clear water are watermelon green, green pumpkin, brown/purple (commonly called Peanut Butter and Jelly).
Don adds a little personal touch to his presentation by tying his own drop shot flies. He takes drop shot hooks and ties on some feathers and flash ribbons to mimic shad in the water column.
When conditions really get tough Don suggests live night crawlers. He hooks them on drop shot hooks just through the head. This allows the worm to free float in the water to add to the appeal of the live bait look.
As with any type of fishing, this article gives the angler a good starting point. However, he/she should continue to experiment while drop shot fishing to find the most effective ways to catch fish in any particular impoundment.
Don House can be reached at http://www.bransonfishingguideservice.com/
Copyright Marc Rogers, 2008
Sunday, March 30, 2008
Summer Fishing on Table Rock Lake
Summer Fishing on Table Rock Lake
Fishing for bass on Table Rock Lake from early to late summer can be very frustrating for many anglers. This impoundment has very clear water and the bass seldom relate to the shallow water cover and structure this lake has. Even during the spawn bass often bed in water as deep as ten feet due the extremely clear water. It is difficult for many anglers to locate bass in Table Rock Lake because most of the bass relate to cover and structure that is away from the banks.
After fishing with a Table Rock Lake angler I have learned some tips to share on catching suspended Spotted (Kentucky) Bass when many anglers fail to get a bite most days. Neil Huskey has been fishing Table Rock Lake for the past 30 years and has competed in many tournaments on the lake. He has agreed to share his knowledge on how to better the chances of productive fishing days on Table Rock.
I have had the pleasure of being employed by the same company with Neil for several years and worked right beside him for much of the time before he retired a few years ago. Also, I had the opportunity to fish from his boat on this lake and learned enough to not have to suffer through fishless days as I did before Neil shared his techniques with me of fishing Table Rock. He can, more often than not, catch many keeper sized spotted bass by using the techniques he has shared for this article.
Neil reports he targets the suspended fish after the spawn when they have moved to deeper water to recover form the rigors of the spring ritual. The first place to look for the bass is in 15 – 20 feet around submerged trees. It is best to have a very sensitive graph to find this cover and possibly the fish around the cover. The sensitivity must be turned up high to see the detail and fish around the cover. At times the fish still will not appear on the graph display but they can still be caught by using a four inch worm or grub fished vertically around the trees. Neil says most of the time an angler will not feel the bite and recommends line watching for this technique because the only indication of a bite will be that the line stops before the lure has had time to reach the bottom.
As the summer progresses Neil suggests anglers should move out to the main lake points where submerged trees can be found at 80 – 100 feet deep with the top of the trees 20 – 40 feet below the water surface. These fish will also be hard to see with electronics because they blend in with the trees they are relating to. The most productive way to catch these bass is to make a vertical presentation with a four-inch worm just a couple feet above the top of the trees. With the sensitivity turned up the four-inch worm is visible on the graph as it falls.
Sharing the boat with Neil I have watched him just hold this worm and jig head combination still with only the movement of the boat causing any movement of the lure. When the fish are aggressive Neil says they will move towards the bait so fast it will created a line or streak on the graph display just before the bite occurs. However, many times the fish are not aggressive and will slowly move towards the bait and stay near it several minutes before finally biting. Usually when they are not very aggressive the bite is very light.
The tackle of choice for Neil is a seven-foot medium-action spinning rod with a large spool reel. He uses 6 – 8 pound test line and this rod and reel combination allow for a solid and quick hook set. He recommends the drag be set extremely tight so it doesn’t slip when setting the hook with 30 – 60 feet of line below the boat.
When fishing this way in deep water it is much better to back reel instead of relying on a drag system. Neil says “as soon as I hook a fish I bring it up about six feet and shift my anti-reverse to off in the process. When a fish makes a strong run I can back reel to keep from having the fish break off on the light line. When done properly a big fish can’t break you off in open water.”
During the middle of the summer when the water temperature on the surface is in the upper 80’s to low 90’s it is best to locate the shad that have began moving to the flats, bluff ends or channel swings. To locate productive water during these conditions Neil slowly runs his boat over these areas with the graph on looking for big schools of shad. The suspended bass will be either just under these shad or right among the school of shad feeding. There are two productive techniques for catching these fish. One is the vertical presentation with a four-inch worm or grub on a jig head and the other is using a heavy spoon. With the spoon it is best to move back from the shad and cast past them. The angler should count down the depth and use a lift and fall retrieve all the way through the area while keeping the lure at the depth the bass are holding. It is wise to use a medium heavy casting outfit with 14 – 20 pound test line when casting a spoon.
These techniques can be duplicated on most any deep – clear impoundment when the fish suspend. When beating the banks doesn’t work every angler should give this a try.
Special note: Neil is interested in purchasing spoons called the Dixie Jet (with the fish stamped into the metal) in the 5/8 ounce size. If you have any that you are willing to sell please contact us at MidwestFishing@aol.com and let us know how Neil can get in contact with you.
Copyright Marc Rogers 2008; all rights reserved.
Fishing for bass on Table Rock Lake from early to late summer can be very frustrating for many anglers. This impoundment has very clear water and the bass seldom relate to the shallow water cover and structure this lake has. Even during the spawn bass often bed in water as deep as ten feet due the extremely clear water. It is difficult for many anglers to locate bass in Table Rock Lake because most of the bass relate to cover and structure that is away from the banks.
After fishing with a Table Rock Lake angler I have learned some tips to share on catching suspended Spotted (Kentucky) Bass when many anglers fail to get a bite most days. Neil Huskey has been fishing Table Rock Lake for the past 30 years and has competed in many tournaments on the lake. He has agreed to share his knowledge on how to better the chances of productive fishing days on Table Rock.
I have had the pleasure of being employed by the same company with Neil for several years and worked right beside him for much of the time before he retired a few years ago. Also, I had the opportunity to fish from his boat on this lake and learned enough to not have to suffer through fishless days as I did before Neil shared his techniques with me of fishing Table Rock. He can, more often than not, catch many keeper sized spotted bass by using the techniques he has shared for this article.
Neil reports he targets the suspended fish after the spawn when they have moved to deeper water to recover form the rigors of the spring ritual. The first place to look for the bass is in 15 – 20 feet around submerged trees. It is best to have a very sensitive graph to find this cover and possibly the fish around the cover. The sensitivity must be turned up high to see the detail and fish around the cover. At times the fish still will not appear on the graph display but they can still be caught by using a four inch worm or grub fished vertically around the trees. Neil says most of the time an angler will not feel the bite and recommends line watching for this technique because the only indication of a bite will be that the line stops before the lure has had time to reach the bottom.
As the summer progresses Neil suggests anglers should move out to the main lake points where submerged trees can be found at 80 – 100 feet deep with the top of the trees 20 – 40 feet below the water surface. These fish will also be hard to see with electronics because they blend in with the trees they are relating to. The most productive way to catch these bass is to make a vertical presentation with a four-inch worm just a couple feet above the top of the trees. With the sensitivity turned up the four-inch worm is visible on the graph as it falls.
Sharing the boat with Neil I have watched him just hold this worm and jig head combination still with only the movement of the boat causing any movement of the lure. When the fish are aggressive Neil says they will move towards the bait so fast it will created a line or streak on the graph display just before the bite occurs. However, many times the fish are not aggressive and will slowly move towards the bait and stay near it several minutes before finally biting. Usually when they are not very aggressive the bite is very light.
The tackle of choice for Neil is a seven-foot medium-action spinning rod with a large spool reel. He uses 6 – 8 pound test line and this rod and reel combination allow for a solid and quick hook set. He recommends the drag be set extremely tight so it doesn’t slip when setting the hook with 30 – 60 feet of line below the boat.
When fishing this way in deep water it is much better to back reel instead of relying on a drag system. Neil says “as soon as I hook a fish I bring it up about six feet and shift my anti-reverse to off in the process. When a fish makes a strong run I can back reel to keep from having the fish break off on the light line. When done properly a big fish can’t break you off in open water.”
During the middle of the summer when the water temperature on the surface is in the upper 80’s to low 90’s it is best to locate the shad that have began moving to the flats, bluff ends or channel swings. To locate productive water during these conditions Neil slowly runs his boat over these areas with the graph on looking for big schools of shad. The suspended bass will be either just under these shad or right among the school of shad feeding. There are two productive techniques for catching these fish. One is the vertical presentation with a four-inch worm or grub on a jig head and the other is using a heavy spoon. With the spoon it is best to move back from the shad and cast past them. The angler should count down the depth and use a lift and fall retrieve all the way through the area while keeping the lure at the depth the bass are holding. It is wise to use a medium heavy casting outfit with 14 – 20 pound test line when casting a spoon.
These techniques can be duplicated on most any deep – clear impoundment when the fish suspend. When beating the banks doesn’t work every angler should give this a try.
Special note: Neil is interested in purchasing spoons called the Dixie Jet (with the fish stamped into the metal) in the 5/8 ounce size. If you have any that you are willing to sell please contact us at MidwestFishing@aol.com and let us know how Neil can get in contact with you.
Copyright Marc Rogers 2008; all rights reserved.
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